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The collaboration story began in earnest toward the end of the nineties when sports companies began to widen their net and create products aimed at a lifestyle audience.
"Collaborations have been born out of a recognition we've made that, although sports is our foundation, our interaction with customers doesn't need to stop at the playfield," explains Neil Beeson, general manager of Puma's sport fashion division, a team set up to address this growing market. "And it's born out of a realization that design is at the heart of what we do," he continues. "Alternative types of collaborators, bring different perspectives to your business."
In March 2005, Puma, one of the pioneers of "sport fashion," announced it had taken brand collaboration one-step further by opening its first multi-branded store. The store houses its collaborations with Philippe Starck, Neil Barrett and Christy Turlington all under one roof. Sited among the hip hotels, boutiques and bars of New York's fashionable meatpacking district, the store adheres to one of the key motives behind co-branding: to root the brand in credibility among fashion-savvy shoppers. Ever since Run DMC sang the ode to low-cut sneakers "My adidas," brand owners have recognized that if their brand is seized upon by the in-crowd, their influence will radiate out to the high street.
The multi-branded store enables a large brand like Puma to re-connect with its customers and get personal. It's a U-turn from the biggest-is-best ethos of retail temples pioneered by Nike (which opened its first Nike Town in 1990). This new kind of retail experience positions Puma as a brand nurturing rather than monopolizing innovation. "When you travel abroad you find that one concept store looks the same as another," continues Beeson. "But our model isn't too dissimilar to that of a boutique. A boutique owner presents his own view of the world and becomes a sort of designer in his or her own right. It's the same with the multi-branded store, except we control the access point ourselves."
Which bring us to a further key motive behind brand collaborations: the ability to "crossover" a brand into new markets and attain instant credibility. While many brands still shy away from co-branding as a route to growth, collaborations afford a brand an opportunity to tentatively chance its toe in the water and innovate. This can potentially remove some of the risks associated with leaping head first into brand and line extensions.
That's not to say that brand collaborations aren't without their risks. In January 2005, Pharrell Williams, the musician and designer behind Bathing Ape, fell out with Reebok over its Billionaire Boys Club (BBC) collaborations and threatened to sue for US$ 4 million dollars.
According to media reports at the time, Williams said, "Reebok could not adequately produce the full range of licensed products in a manner consistent with the design and quality standards and specifications required by BBC."
The legal wrangling was quickly smoothed over out of court, but Matt Hirst, youth trend consultant at Headlight Vision argues that the Reebok case stressed an important lesson for large brands poised to enter into brand partnerships. "To be credible, it's massively important that the collaboration holds up, which means that the bigger brand needs to cede control over to the collaborator," he argued. "Reebok just hadn't given full support to the artist. It shows just how wrong it can go."
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Paddy Meehan, managing director of design group Oki-Ni, says "In our experience, the creative process is smooth. When you work with a large brand, it's the bureaucratic aspects that become most complex. They've got so many territories, existing agreements and so on already forged." Oki Ni creates limited edition projects for the likes of adidas, Honda motorcycles and Levis, and sells them online to a global "in-the-know" audience.
Meehan says that the process cannot be easily repeated and mass-produced, "Every single product is different. All our adidas shoes must have the three stripes. In the past we've tried to push for less overtly branded products, but there are some things that brands just won't let us change and we understand that. Once we know our parameters, we push that as far as we can. But we found that there's no set rule; all big brands are structured differently. There are so many levels, it's just not do-able to approach every project in the same way."
So far, many of the brand collaborations are "one-offs" or limited product runs designed to generate a buzz. Plagued by ill-defined returns, is there a more sustainable case for brand collaborations? Puma's Beeson thinks so, "We certainly believe that collaborations can do two things. First, it can act as a brand enhancer. Second, it can turn into a business opportunity. But it depends; new collaborations take a few seasons to establish."
Could someday Sony and Nintendo work together on an overtly co-branded commercial venture? Oki-Ni's Meehan squarely thinks not, at least in the foreseeable future, "My experience is that brands are too protective to co-brand for wider, commercial reasons. It'd be an interesting conclusion to the process. It'd have to be a fairly brave brand to go for something like that."
For now it seems, the main value of collaboration isn't always an immediate monetary one. But viewed another way, collaboration is a way to earn respect in the right places: "eBay gives collaborations a second life," suggests Hirst of Headlight Vision. Hirst points to a rare pair of Nike training shoes on eBay that feature (of all things) an embroidered pigeon on its heel. Since the launch of this particular collaboration in New York a couple of months ago, the shoes have been selling for many times their original price tag, "If you weigh up the cost of producing limited edition shoes against the budgets of most ads, then they're good value. It allows brands to get into the right, real places, something ads couldn't do alone."
Although mostly produced on limited runs, the true value of brand collaborations might be sought in their lasting impact. If they're still in demand on eBay months later, a collaboration could well be on its way to attracting the intended crowd and just the right sort of attention. [9-May-2005]
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Rob Mitchell advises brands how to use language and express their tone of voice for The Writer in London.
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Oct 24, 2005
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Branding, a Job Well Done -- Dale Buss
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How do major brands like Costco and Ritz-Carlton become household names without relying on traditional advertising? By tapping into their greatest resource: Employees.
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Aug 8, 2005
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Hotel Brands Break the Chain -- Rob Mitchell
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After decades of perfecting the known experience at chains around the world, hotel brands are now trying to create boutique hotels as guests go on a quest for the one-off experience.
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Jul 25, 2005
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Best Global Brands: Focus on UBS -- Robin Rusch
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Among the top five fastest growing brands on the list of 100 Best Global Brands 2005, Swiss financial services company UBS reflects the work in progress of growing and sustaining a global brand.
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Jun 20, 2005
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Growing Pains Small Brands -- Alicia Clegg
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How can a brand remain true while broadening its reach? Popular but small brands like Innocent Drinks, Tyrrells and Hill Station risk losing their original fans in their quest to grow bigger.
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Apr 18, 2005
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Dove Gets Real -- Alicia Clegg
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Unilever’s Dove is the latest beauty brand to use "real" women to sell product. But can this campaign turn ugly?
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Mar 7, 2005
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Should Global Brands Trash Local Favorites? -- Randall Frost
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When P&G, Unilever and Nestlé clean house, they risk losing local markets for beloved brands. Companies like Henkel, on the other hand, retain a portfolio of national and international brands to satisfy both global and local tastes.
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