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From wartime images of women dispensing tea and sympathy to city commuters gulping lattés on the hoof, tea, coffee and chocolate have held a special place in consumer culture. But while times are not exactly hard, life has become a little less sweet of late for the multi-million dollar corporations that market the world's best-loved treats.
In more mature markets, young consumers are drinking cold instead of hot drinks. Owners of chocolate brands, under attack from the health lobby, face similarly sluggish rates of growth. Added to this, firms in all three sectors have been charged with making handsome profits at home, while producers in developing countries fail miserably to capture the value of their crops and, in some instances, cannot even cover their costs.
Enter a new breed of enterprise, firms with a mission to restore fairness to trade and promote economic development in the world's poorest countries. From humble beginnings, the Fairtrade movement has blossomed into an international labeling organization endorsing brands in nineteen markets around the world. In the UK, the largest national Fairtrade market by volume, sales of products bearing the Fairtrade mark are running at around £100 million per year (US$ 187M).
Among the mix of firms contributing to the success of Fairtrade are a group of companies achieving rates of sales growth that make the big brands look frankly pedestrian. So how have the star performers (which include the likes of Cafédirect, Britain's third largest ground and roasted coffee brand) turned doing the right thing into profit?
In the UK the Fairtrade mark is controlled by the Fairtrade Foundation, a non-profit backed by voluntary groups and international development agencies. Originally limited to a few core products, the mark now applies to a wide range of food and non-food items. Although each product category has slightly different licensing criteria, the guiding aim is to guarantee fair and stable prices to producer co-operatives, plus decent working conditions for hired workers.
While the Fairtrade Foundation's remit is limited to trading relationships, the businesses licensed to carry its mark have proved adept at linking the ethos of Fairtrade to more generalized consumer concerns. A good example of this is where businesses have turned to their advantage the whole idea of food provenance and traceability. This has helped foster the idea that Fairtrade brands are not only ethical but, through their investment in grower communities, in some way more authentic too.
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"There's a real enthusiasm for celebrating the skills and expertise of the people who have been growing the products for generations. Consumers are more sensitized these days to the idea that if you want quality you have to pay for it," says Sylvie Barr, head of marketing at Cafédirect.
Limited marketing budgets have encouraged the prime movers to think creatively. For Clipper, a fine beverages specialist, which bears the Fairtrade mark on many of its products, design and high-quality packaging materials proved more effective than advertising. "Re-designing our packaging is the single most important thing that we've done," says Paul Machin the company's public relations manager. "It allowed us to trade on provenance and connoisseurship, in the same way that wine growers trade upon terroir." As an example of this link between quality and place of origin, Machin points to the company's Fairtrade organic Earl Grey tea, which carries the image of an exquisitely crafted Indian rosewater sprinkler. "It plays to the idea of the thinking person's cuppa," he adds.
Celebrity endorsement and positive editorial have also been important: particularly to firms with unorthodox business structures such as Cafédirect, which was founded by an alliance of development agencies and trading organizations. Being enthusiastically championed by Comic Relief, a media-focused charity, helped the Day Chocolate Company (a UK-based firm, partly owned by a West African cocoa co-operative) punch far above its weight in the block chocolate market, virtually from day one.
So far, Fairtrade has had its greatest successes in a few niche categories purchased by more affluent consumers. The clearest example is roasted and ground coffee, where Fairtrade brands account for around 19 percent of sales. But can the Fairtrade mark expand successfully into wider markets? Cafédirect's Barr believes it can, suggesting that as much as 50 percent of consumers might be persuaded to pay a small premium for products with an ethical appeal—provided that the quality lives up to their expectations.
Whether such ambitions are fulfilled may hinge on the response of retailers and their willingness to bring Fairtrade to the attention of a wider audience. But can their support be counted upon? One interesting development is the decision of some supermarkets, including the UK market leader Tesco, to start selling a selection of own brand products under the Fairtrade label.
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Ian Bretman, deputy director of the Fairtrade Foundation, acknowledges the tension in this development. "When a retailer approaches us, we ask whether it's their aim to expand the market, or to cannibalize existing sales." On balance, however, he sees the trend as positive, pointing out that the Co-operative Group (the first store to switch its own brand coffee and block chocolate entirely to Fairtrade) has actively developed the sector, stocking a wide range of products and encouraging trial of other brands through money-off promotions during Fairtrade Fortnight (an event in the UK scheduled for the first two weeks of March 2005).
The big food and drinks groups have yet to reveal their hands. But as Fairtrade businesses set their sights on the wider market, some form of competitive response from the likes of Kraft and Nestlé becomes inevitable. One possibility is that the multinationals will follow the retailers and become converts to the cause; either by launching Fairtrade sub-brands or by switching over existing lines.
An alternative, perhaps more likely, scenario is that the big brand-owners will look for ways of sprucing up their ethical credentials—but without having to pay the turnover-related licensing fees imposed by the Foundation or committing themselves to its formal price support mechanisms.
This alternative course is one that Kraft appears to favor. Last year the company agreed to buy a small, but gradually increasing, share of its coffee beans from farms certified by the Rainforest Alliance, an independent US-based standards body, which promotes environmental protection and better conditions for farm workers. Although the Rainforest Alliance does not involve itself in pricing, Kraft has said that it is paying above market rates for the beans, which it buys through the scheme. However, as the decision to pay a premium is one that Kraft has taken voluntarily, there is no certainty as to what price it will pay in the future.
Such initiatives fail to impress the firms most closely associated with Fairtrade. "Without a guaranteed minimum price, farmers have no assurance for the future, because prices are so volatile. When they drop really low, farmers could receive 20 percent more than the market price and still not cover their costs," points out Cafédirect's Barr.
Then there is the problem of consumers becoming confused by a proliferation of competing marks. Worst of all, there is the possibility that consumers will no longer see Fairtrade as offering more than other brands. "There's a bit of nervousness about companies looking at the growing Fairtrade market and saying consumers want Fairtrade, so we'll offer them something that sounds a bit like Fairtrade," says Bretman.
Creating a £100 million market in little more than a decade is an impressive achievement. But tough decisions lie ahead. One especially fraught issue is whether the Foundation should do more to encourage participation from the big food and drinks groups. To some Fairtraders such a course may smack of sleeping with the enemy. But if the ultimate aim is to spread the benefits of Fairtrade as widely as possible, collaboration is the logical way forward. With the world's biggest brands adopting the language of ethical consumerism, the time may have come to bring big business into the fold.
[28-Feb-2005]
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Alicia Clegg is a freelance journalist and writer based in the UK.
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Oct 24, 2005
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Branding, a Job Well Done -- Dale Buss
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How do major brands like Costco and Ritz-Carlton become household names without relying on traditional advertising? By tapping into their greatest resource: Employees.
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Aug 8, 2005
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Hotel Brands Break the Chain -- Rob Mitchell
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After decades of perfecting the known experience at chains around the world, hotel brands are now trying to create boutique hotels as guests go on a quest for the one-off experience.
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Jul 25, 2005
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Best Global Brands: Focus on UBS -- Robin Rusch
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Among the top five fastest growing brands on the list of 100 Best Global Brands 2005, Swiss financial services company UBS reflects the work in progress of growing and sustaining a global brand.
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Jun 20, 2005
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Growing Pains Small Brands -- Alicia Clegg
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How can a brand remain true while broadening its reach? Popular but small brands like Innocent Drinks, Tyrrells and Hill Station risk losing their original fans in their quest to grow bigger.
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Apr 18, 2005
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Dove Gets Real -- Alicia Clegg
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Unilever’s Dove is the latest beauty brand to use "real" women to sell product. But can this campaign turn ugly?
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Mar 7, 2005
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Should Global Brands Trash Local Favorites? -- Randall Frost
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When P&G, Unilever and Nestlé clean house, they risk losing local markets for beloved brands. Companies like Henkel, on the other hand, retain a portfolio of national and international brands to satisfy both global and local tastes.
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